(1) Russian, 2008
(2) Satisfaction!, 2017
(3) Polish, 1983
(4) Spanish, 1983
Complete southwest face, Satisfaction!, 2,600m, ED+ WI5+ M7.
July 25 - August 1 round trip from base camp.
Satisfaction by Zdeněk Hák and Marek Holeček from the Czech Republic is probably the last logical line on the huge west face of Gasherbrum I. It is the first full ascent of the face, and completes a direct line to the summit first attempted back in 1983 by Jerzy Kukuczka and Voytek Kurtyka. Holeček had made four previous attempts on this line, in the process losing one climbing partner and parts of several toes. The successful ascent, beginning on July 25, took six days, with the last bivouac at 8,000m.
The final rock band above 7,800m had presented such a high order of technical climbing that it took a full 12 hours to complete just 80m. The descent from the summit, via the Normal Route along the Japanese Couloir, was first through a white inferno, then down avalanche prone slopes. They returned to base camp eight days after leaving.
Zdeněk Hák
- Czech Republic
Year of birth: 1980
Czech mountaineer, rock climber and ski mountaineer. Works as UIAGM mountain guide since 2010. Junior Czech downhill ski team member. Háček started climbing and ski mountaineering racing in 1997 during his studies at the Hotel School in Turnov, Czech Republic. Hacek specializes in solo speed climbs of alpine faces. In 2016 Háček skied down the highest mountain in Afghanistan Noshaq (7498m) for which he was awarded the Czech Climb of the Year Award in the category of ski mountaineering. In 2017 Háček established with Marek Holeček a new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 meters), Karakorum. The new route called Satistaction! was established in alpine style is rated ED+, M7, WI 5+. Awarded third place as the Czech Climber of the Year 2017. In 2018, Háček together with Holeček established a new route up Kyazo Ri in Nepal, ED+ ,WI 4+,M6,3+UIAA. Háček lives in Rokytnice nad Jizerou, Czech Republic and has two children. In his free time, Háč ek climbs sandstone towers in Český ráj
Marek Holeček
- Czech Republic
Year of birth: 1974
Czech mountaineer, rock climber, documentary film maker, writer, photographer and lecturer. Marek was born and lives in Prague with his wife and daughter. He has done more than 30 expeditions to the Asian Mountains, South and North America, Antarctica. All in alpine style. Marek has completed 13 first ascents and solo ascent up the Japanese Couloir to Gasherbrum I so far. Marek was nominated for the Piolets d'Or 2014 award for the first ascent of Talung (7348m), Nepal. He also received honorable recognition Golden Piton Awards 2006 for the first ascent of Meru Central (6310 m n. m.), India. Marek received seven awards and five honorable recognition for the best climb of the year from the Czech Mountaineering Association. Marek is a author of the successful book, autor and co-autor of 6 documentary films. He often writes articles for Czech and foreign magazines and websites, prepares lectures for the public and motivational lectures for companies.
In 2017 Marek established with Zdeněk Hák a new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 meters), Karakorum. The new route called Satistaction! was established in alpine style is rated ED+, M7, WI 5+. Awarded second place as the Czech Climber of the Year 2017. In 2018, Marek together with Hák established a new route up Kyazo Ri in Nepal, ED+ ,WI 4+,M6,3+UIAA.
