East meets West: Tiphaine Dupérier in Nepal. ©Boris Langenstein
The Piolets d’Or aims to promote female alpinism by making either a Special Mention to an all-female expedition completing a significant ascent in the Greater Ranges, or to a female or females taking a lead role in a mixed group ascent, or a single female for major multiple mountaineering ascents through the years. In 2026 the mention is for a single female – Tiphaine Dupérier from France.
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Tiphaine Dupérier
In 2025, arguably one of the most significant ascents – and descents – at altitude by a female alpinist was the first alpine style ascent of the Schell Route on the Rupal flank of Nanga Parbat followed by the first ski descent from the 8,125m summit.
Tiphaine Dupérier is a mountain guide and ski patroller originally from the Bauges and now living in the Haute Tarentaise. She was a past member of the Groupe Excellence Alpinisme National (GEAN) – the elite training programme run by the French Alpine Club. She is now probably best known for extreme ski descents at high altitude in the Greater Ranges.
Dupérier, with her long-time partner Boris Langenstein, first attempted Nanga Parbat in 2019. On their first summit attempt via the standard Kinshofer Route, deteriorating weather forced them down, Dupérier from just below 8,000m and Langenstein from 8,040m. On the subsequent attempt Langenstein reached the summit and skied from 8080m, rejoining Dupérier who had stopped around 7,800m.
In 2024 they returned to try the Rupal side of the mountain and with the German, David Goettler, were forced to retreat from 7,524m on the 1976 Schell Route, which had received less than 10 ascents.
All three returned in 2025, after previously acclimatizing in Nepal. From June 21-24 they made the first alpine style ascent of the ca 3,500m Schell Route. Dupérier and Langenstein skied off the summit: Goettler hoped to paraglide, but it was too windy. He accompanied them to 7,700m, where he deployed the wing and was able to reach base camp in around half an hour. Lack of snow at one point on this section meant that Dupérier and Langenstein had to remove skis for a short distance; they also made a 30m rappel. The rest was skied. The two spent the night at 7,600m, having carried a tent, mattress and stove (but no sleeping bag), as well as skis, to the summit.
The following evening, they camped at 7,400m, and on the 26th reached 6,000m, having skied almost all the way. Due to the heat, the terrain below this point looked like a battlefield and by a combination of skiing in survival mode, some rappels, and a bit of downclimbing, they reached 4,500m, from where they walked to base camp.
Dupérier and Langenstein had completed a seven-year dream, which all three climbers felt might be the highlight of their mountaineering careers to date.
Naturally, in the Alps, Dupérier has achieved many significant ski descents as well as a number of ascents as part of an all-female team, such as the Ratti-Vitali on the west face of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (Mont Blanc), a winter ascent of the south ridge of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, a winter ascent of the Innominata Ridge (Mont Blanc), Beyond Good and Evil (Aiguille des Pélerins), and the north face of the Matterhorn. Of the many steep ski ascents, notable is the new combination on the north face of the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, descended without any rappels, with Vivian Bruchez, Tom Lafaille, Boris Langenstein and Guillaume Pierrel.
Below is a list of Dupérier's achievements, mostly in the Greater Ranges. Nearly all have been with Boris Langenstein, who describes their relationship:
"I was lucky enough to cross paths with Tiphaine at high school and since then we have shared a big part of our adventures. Our relationship is much more than simply that of being climbing partners.
Even in school, her charm and personality rarely left people indifferent. She already had that strong body and steel mindset that are made for big expeditions.
However, what I value most about Tiphaine is the person she is with me: she worries about me, takes care of me, and is always attentive. I know I can count on her. In expeditions as in life.
After all these years, maybe that’s what matters most to me: knowing that she’s there.
Tiphaine, even if your ego probably didn’t need it, I’m really happy that you’re getting this recognition."
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2014 - Kyrgyzstan, Karavshin
A possible new route (1,300m, M5 WI5) on the north face of Pik Piramidalny (5,509m) to an exit onto the east ridge, down which they escaped.
With: Robin Coullet, Jonathan Isoard and Christophe Moulin. Other routes climbed.
2017 - India, Zanskar Region
- Probable first ascent of Peak 5,550m and ski descent of the 1,200m north face.
- Ski descent of the north face of Peak 5,900m.
- Ascent of the northwest face of Peak 6,050m and ski descent via the northwest face (1,800m).
- Ski descent of the northwest face of Nun (7,135m).
With: Boris Langenstein.
2018 - Pakistan, Masherbrum Range
First complete ski descent of Laila Peak (6,096m) via the northwest face — a coveted first ski descent amongst top-class steep skiers.
With: Carole Chambaret and Boris Langenstein.
2019 - Pakistan, Spantik–Sosbun Range
First ski descent of Spantik (7,027m) via the normal route on the southeast ridge.
With: Boris Langenstein.
2019 - Pakistan, Himalaya
Alpine-style ascent of the Kinshofer Route on Nanga Parbat to 7,800m, followed by a ski descent of the Kinshofer Route.
With: Boris Langenstein.
2020 - Iceland, Vatnajökull Glacier
South-to-north ski crossing of the glacier and packraft descent of the Jokla River through the Hafrahvammaglufur Canyon.
With: Nouria Newman and Boris Langenstein.
2021 - Pakistan, Rakaposhi Range and Hindu Raj
- First ascent of the northwest ridge of Darchan (5,347m) and ski descent.
- First ascent of Peak 5,040m and ski descent.
- Partial new line on the northwest couloir of Garmush I (6,244m) and first ski descent.
- First ascent of the southwest face of Garmush II (6,180m) and ski descent.
With: Aurélia Lanoë, Boris Langenstein and Guillaume Pierrel.
2021 - Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh
First ski descent of the French Spur on Gasherbrum II (8,035m).
With: Aurélia Lanoë, Boris Langenstein and Guillaume Pierrel.
2022 - Alaska, Central Alaska Range
A ski descent of the southwest face of Denali (6,190m) via the Cassin Exit, McCartney–Roberts Route, West Rib and then Chicken Corridor, possibly the first descent of this line.
With: Boris Langenstein.
2022 - Nepal, Dhaulagiri Himal
Attempt on unclimbed Sita Chuchura West (6,622m) to 6,400m, followed by a ski descent of the southwest face.
With: Boris Langenstein.
2023 - Georgia, Caucasus
First ski descent of the northwest face of a 4,450m sub-summit of Ushba (4,710m).
With: Nouria Newman.
2025 - Nepal, Mahalangur Himal, Barun Section
Ascent of Baruntse (7,152m) as acclimatization for Nanga Parbat. Skiing from 6,800m down to around 6,000m.
With: David Goettler and Boris Langenstein.
2025 — Pakistan, Himalaya
First alpine-style ascent of the Schell Route on Nanga Parbat (8,125m) and the first ski descent from the summit. This was also the first ski descent on the Rupal side of the mountain.
Ascent: with David Goettler and Boris Langenstein.
Descent: with Boris Langenstein.
