Piolets d'Or - 2024 Significant first ascents

2024 - Significant first ascents

This is a representative list of significant, innovative ascents from most mountain regions of the World. Whilst not every climb listed here would be considered eligible for a Piolet d'Or, all are regarded as noteworthy and adventurous within their particular regions, mostly involving new ground and technical climbing in lightweight style. Grades quoted by the first ascensionists remain unconfirmed.


This preliminary list of significant first ascents during 2024 was compiled by Lindsay Griffin (Senior Editor, American Alpine Journal), with help from Dougald MacDonald (Editor in Chief, American Alpine Journal) and Rodolphe Popier (Fédération Française des Clubs Alpins et de Montagne).

Pakistan

Thui II (6,523m)

First ascent of Spider’s Thread (1,450m, ED+ M7 A2) on the west face of Thui II (6,523m), Hindu Raj, September 21–23, by Kei Narita, Yuu Nishida, and Yudai Suzuki (Japan). Rappelled the same route.

NO LINK

Yashkuk Sar (6,667m)

First ascent of Yashkuk Sar (6,667m), Batura Muztagh, via the north pillar—Tiger Lily Buttress (2,000m, AI5+ M6 A0), September 19–23—by August Franzen, Dane Steadman, and Cody Winckler (USA). Traversed the mountain and descended by the upper west face and lower north face.

NO LINK

Yawash Sar (6,258m)

First ascent of Yawash Sar (6,258m), Ghujerab Mountains, via the west-northwest face (ca 800m), September 11–14, by Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders (U.K.). Rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217084

Mashallah Sar (6,043m)

First ascent of Mashallah Sar (6,043m), Ghujerab Mountains, via the west face (1,000m, TD WI4 M4), July 26, by Oswaldo Freire and Joshua Jarrín (Ecuador), Masha Gordon (UK), and Jacques Sturm (France). Descended route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217085

Muchu Chhish (7,453m)

First ascent of Muchu Chhish (7,453m), Batura Muztagh, via the south spur and west ridge (ca 2,100m, M4 70°), July 2–5, Jaroslav Bánský, Radoslav Groh, and Zdeněk Hák (Czech Republic). Descended same route. Around 20km of climbing above base camp. Previously the highest named and unclimbed summit in Pakistan.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217083

Virjerab Sar (6,616m GPS)

First ascent of Virjerab Sar (6,616m GPS), Virjerab Muztagh, via the west flank and north-northwest ridge, summit on August 9, by Phil de-Beger (UK), Lorenzo Heis (Switzerland), and Aleksi Mujirishvili (Georgia). Descended route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217095

Gasherbrum III (7,958m)

First ascent of the west ridge of Gasherbrum III (7,958m), Baltoro Muztagh, via Edge of Entropy (nearly 3,000m base camp to summit; a short pitch high on the route was possibly M6), July 31–August 4, by Aleš Česen (Slovenia) and Tom Livingstone (U.K.). Traversed mountain by descending east face and then the normal route (southwest ridge) of Gasherbrum II.

NO LINK

Sckem Brakk (5,259m)

First ascent to the summit of Sckem Brakk (5,259m), Tagas Mountains, via Azzardo Extremo (900m, 26 pitches, 7a A3), August 21-26, by Matteo De Zaiacomo and Chiara Gusmeroli (Italy). Descended route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217100

India

Starikatchan (5,804m)

First ascent of Starikatchan (5,804m), Zanskar, via the west face and south ridge (800m, V 5.7 AI 40°), July 13-14, Alan Goldbetter and Tess Smith (USA). Descended route

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217138

Vajrayogini (6,218m GPS)

First ascent of Vajrayogini (6,218m GPS), Zanskar, via the northeast face and northwest ridge, June 11, by Yuri Koshelenko (Russia), Bayarsaikhan Luvsandorj (Mongolia/Russia), and Mikhail Pupeiko (Belarus). Descended route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217139

Chanrasrik Ri (6,080m)

First ascent of the main (south) summit of Chanrasrik Ri (6,080m), Zanskar. In 2018, Italians climbed Jullay Temu (1000m, UIAA V+ 70° ice) up the left edge of the northeast face to the 5,959m central top. On July 28, Elias Hangweyrer and David Schneider repeated this route and continued to the true summit. Descended west face.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217140

Spao Ri (T9, 6,107m)

First ascent of Spao Ri (T9, 6,107m), Zanskar, via Old and Abandoned (700m, TD, 75° ice) on the north face, July 25, by Matic Jošt (Slovenia), solo. Descended southwest face.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217143

Lalung I (6,243m)

First ascent of Lalung I (6,243m), Zanskar, via the east ridge—Here Comes the Sun (2,000m of climbing, M6+ AI5+)—September 9–14, by Anja Petek and Patricija Verdev (Slovenia). Traversed the mountain and descended by the west ridge and north face.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217057

CB 26 South Summit (5,880m)

First ascent of CB 26 South Summit (5,880m), Himachal Pradesh, via the northwest face and northeast ridge (600m, WI3 70°), with approach and descent by paraglider and ski, October 31, by Juraj Koreň (Slovakia), solo.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217145

Nanda Shori (6,344m)

First ascent of Nanda Shori (6,344m), Garhwal Himal, via Dirty Dancing on the east face (1,200m, 5a M5 WI5), May 29–June 1, by Archil Badriashvili (Georgia), Manu Pellissier (France), and Marko Prezelj (Slovenia). Descended difficult and previously unclimbed north ridge to Longstaff Col. Also made the first ascent of the northeast face of Changuch (6,322m) by the Blue Sheep Couloir (1,000m, WI4), finishing up the northwest ridge, June 14–16.

NO LINK

Nepal

Peak 6

First ascent of Peak 6,119m, Chandi Himal, via Frostbound on the north face, October 12, by Bas Mulder and Alexander Sternfeld (The Netherlands). Descended route. The expedition also made three other first ascents of nearby 6,000m peaks.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216961

Kaqur Kangri (a.k.a. Kanti Himal, 6,859m)

First ascent of the southwest arête (1,670m, ED+ 5.10 A0 M7 WI5) of Kaqur Kangri (a.k.a. Kanti Himal, 6,859m), Kanti Himal, October 15–21, by Spencer Gray and Ryan Griffiths (USA). Traversed the mountain and descended by the previously unclimbed northwest ridge.

NO LINK

Patrasi I (6,521m)

The first ascent of Patrasi I (6,521m), Kanjiroba Himal, via the northwest ridge of Patrasi II (5a WI3 M4), June 10-12, by Vinayak Jaya Malla, Pasang Kami Sherpa, and Pasang Rinzee Sherpa (Nepal). Descended route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217011

Langtang Lirung (7,227m)

First ascent of the east face of Langtang Lirung (7,227m), Langtang Himal, via Ondra's Star (ca 2,500m), by Marek Holeček (Czech Republic) and Ondra Húserka (Slovakia), October 25-30. Descent via northeast ridge and far north side of east face, where Húserka was killed in a rappelling accident.

https://marekholecek.cz/en/novinka/prvovystup-vychodni-stenou-langtang-lirung-7227-m-nepal-vylezeno

Kimshung Sar (6,320m)

Almost first ascent of Kimshung Sar (6,320m), Langtang Himal, via the south-southeast ridge (TD), October 27, by Roger Bovard, Emrik Favre, and Stefano Stradelli (Italy), who stopped on a rocky top ca 100m from the summit. Descended east face.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217015

Ganchempo (6,378m)

Possible new route on the northwest face (700m, 65-70°) of Ganchempo (6,378m), Jugal Himal, November 16, by David Göttler and Nicolas Hojac (Switzerland). Descended south-southwest face.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217016

Chhopa Bamare (6,109m)

First ascent of the northeast ridge – Tsumiki (ca 1,100m, M5) - of Chhopa Bamare (6,109m), Rolwaling Himal, November 11-13, by Akitugu Konishi, Kotaro Kunimune, and Hiroyoshi Manome (Japan). Descended route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217019

Beding Go (6,125m)

First ascent of the northwest ridge – Friendship Ridge (ca 650m, TD, AI3 90°) of Beding Go (6,125m), Rolwaling Himal, October 13, by Danika Gilbert (USA) and Pasang Kidar Sherpa (Nepal). Descended route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217021

Linkhu Chuli II (6,659m)

First ascent of Dreaming of Rotisserie Chicken (1,400m, ED M6 AI3) on the north spur of the northwest top of Linkhu Chuli II (6,659m), Rolwaling Himal, October 31–November 2, by Jack Morris and Nathan White (U.K.). Descended west-northwest ridge from northwest top.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217035

M3 (6,487m)

First ascent of Sunshine Spring Roll (1,500m, WI3+ M3), northeast face and east ridge of Tengkangpoche (6,487m), Rolwaling Himal, April 22-23, by Patrick Gephart and Pat Perry Johnson (USA). Descended route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217036

M5 A1 (6,220m)

First ascent of Bande Organisée (1,000m, 26 pitches from 30m to 70m, AI4+ M5 A1), a partial new route on the north face of Langdak (6,220m), Rolwaling Himal, October 25-28, by Jérémy Fino, Antoine Rolle, and Mathieu Stephan (France). Traversed mountain and descended west ridge and southwest face into a different valley.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217037

Kyajo Ri (6,186m)

First ascent of Butterfly Effect (1,150m, 34 pitches, 6b M6) on the northeast and east faces of Kyajo Ri (6,186m), Rolwaling Himal, October 31-November 2, by Maciej Kimel, Michał Król, and Mariusz Madej (Poland). Descended southeast ridge.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217039

Hungchhi (7,029m)

First ascent of Le Cavalier sans Tête (1,700m, ED) on the west face and northwest ridge of Hungchhi (7,029m), Mahalangur Himal, May 17–18, by Charles Dubouloz and Symon Welfringer (France). Traversed mountain and descended the southwest ridge and east face.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217040

Ama Dablam (6,812m)

First ascent of Chegi (1,600m, ED M5 AI4 80°), a partial new route on the west face of Ama Dablam (6,812m), October 28-31, by Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin (Ukraine). Descended normal route on the southwest ridge.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217042

Pandra (6,673m)

First ascent of A Piece of the Sun (1,200m, ca M6) on the northeast face of Pandra (6,673m), Janak Himal, October 25–29, by Akihiro Oishi, Hiroki Suzuki, and Suguru Takayanagi (Japan). Rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217044

Phole (6,652m)

First ascent of Phole (6,652m), Kangchenjunga Himal, via the North Face Direct (1,500m, ED+), October 27–31, by Hidesuke Taneishi and Hiroki Yamamoto (Japan). Rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217045

China-Tibet

 Chuchepo (6,613m or 6,650m)

First ascent of Chuchepo (6,613m or 6,650m) via the northeast face (700m, D+, M4 AI3 75°), Nyanchen Tanglha East, August 18, by Tong Haijun and Wang Yongpeng (China). Descended route. First ascent of Jiongmudazhi (6,590m) via the northwest face (800m, D+, M3 AI3 75°), Nyanchen Tanglha East, September 9, by Tong Haijun and Wang Yongpeng (China). Descended route. First ascent of the southwest ridge (800m, TD, M5) to the 6,591m west shoulder of Sir Duk (Golden Dragon, 6,614m), Nyanchen Tanglha West, November 8, by Feng Yupeng, Tong Zhanghao, and Xu Hong (China). Descended northwest ridge and west face. First ascent of Guoraka Ri North Top (6,454m) via the north face (1,300m, AI3 75°), Kula Kangri Group, August 30, by Chen Chujun, Huang Siyuan, and Tong Zhanghao (China). Descended route. First ascent of Karjiang (7,221m), Kula Kangri Group, via Buzzer Beater (1,300m, AI3 M4 70°) on the southwest face, August 11–13, by Liu Yang and Song Yuancheng (China). Descended route. Previously world’s fourth highest unclimbed (independent) summit. The second ascent, via a similar route on the southwest face, was made September 9-10, by Huang Siyuan and Tong Zhanghao (China).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217147

Manamcho (6,264m)

First ascent of the southwest ridge (700m, M5 AI2) of Manamcho (6,264m), Nyanchen Tanglha East, September 10, by Liu Junfu and Wang Shuai (China). Descended route.

NO LINK

China

Seerdengpu (5,592m)

The north spur and northeast ridge (ca 2,300m) of Minya Konka (a.k.a. Gongga Shan, 7,556m), Daxue Shan, October 27-29, by Chen Chujun, Tong Haijun, and Wang Yongpeng. This route was first climbed in 2018 by Tong and Li Zongli but they stopped in poor visibility about 30m from the highest point. This time the summit was reached. Descended route. The first ascent of the west face of Seerdengpu (5,592m) – Wild Child (1,200m of climbing, 5.9+ C2) – Siguniang National Park, Qonglai Shan, August 21-26, by Ma Fang (China), solo, in capsule style. Descended route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216944

Siguniang (6,250m)

The first ascent of the north ridge (1,400m, ED, AI4 M5+/M6 75° snow) of Siguniang (6,250m), Siguniang National Park, Qonglai Shan, November 16-22, by Zhang Qingwei and Zhou Song (China). Descended route.

NO LINK

Kyrgyzstan

Argo (4,750m)

New route (950m, 6A [ED] 7b M5 A3+) on the north face and upper west ridge of Argo (4,750m), Ashat Gorge, Gissar Alai, July 22–25, by Anastasia Kozlova, Olga Lukashenko, and Darya Serupova (Russia). Rappelled route.

NO LINK

Peak 3 (3,850m)

First ascent of Messy Dreamers on the south face of the south foresummit of Peak 3,850m, Pamir Alai, by Alessandra Prato and Camilla Reggio (Italy), capsule style, in August. They freed all but two of the 15 pitches, but these were later free climbed on the second ascent by Elias Annila (Finland) and Misha Mishin (Russia) to give a 500m route at 7b. Descended route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217056

Peak 4 (4,810m)

First ascent of Samurai Way (1,300m, 25 pitches, 6B VI A3, 30 bolts) on the northwest face of Peak 4,810m, Pamir Alai, July 17-27, by Anton Kashevnik and Ivan Temerev (Russia), capsule style. Descended route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217055

Greenland

R A2 (1,950m)

First ascent of Ryu-Shin (1,000m, 8b R A2+), on the northwest face of Mirror Wall (1,950m), Renland, August 11–22, by Julia Cassou (France), Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll (Ireland/Belgium), Sean Warren, and Pete Whittaker (both U.K.). A prolonged capsule-style effort, with many of the hard free pitches redpointed during the descent

NO LINK

Drøneren (1,867m)

First ascent of Odyssea Borealis (1,200m, 35 pitches, 7b R) on the northwest face of Drøneren (1,867m), Inugsuarmiut Fjord, by Matteo Della Bordella (Italy), Alex Gammeter (Switzerland), Silvan Schüpbach (Switzerland), and Symon Welfringer (France). Starting on August 6, the team fixed the first 10 pitches, then climbed the route over two days, finishing at the summit on the 18th. Approach by kayak (300km); return by kayak (150km) and boat.

NO LINK

Mussels for Tea (1,590m)

First ascent of Mussels for Tea, Packrafts in the Sea (1,350m, 33 pitches, E6 6b) on the east face of Maujit Qaqarssuasia (1,590m), Cape Farewell Region. The first half of the route, to an escape terrace, was climbed over four days in August by Miška Izakovičova (Slovakia), Callum Johnson, Tim Miller, and Simon Smith (UK), capsule style. The team then returned to base camp, later regaining their high point via the terrace and simultaneously climbing two independent, though only partially new, lines to the top of the Thumbnail.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217151

Canada

Mt. Asgard (2,015m)

First ascent of Memento Mori (1,100m, 5.10 A5) on the west face of the south tower of Mt. Asgard (2,015m), Baffin Island, August 4-8 after fixing two pitches, Brandon Adams, Miles Fullman, and Sam Stuckey (USA). Descended route. The same team also made the first ascent of Ragnarok (750m, 5.11 A5), on the west face of Frigga I (1,264m), July 16–20. The route had previously been attempted by a Japanese team in 1998.

NO LINK

 

USA – Alaska

Denali (6,190m)

Ascent of the south ridge integral of Denali (6,190m) – Kahiltna Peaks to Cassin Ridge, stopping at Kahiltna Horn on west ridge at 6,130m and descending west buttress, Central Alaska Range, May 25-June 3, by Toranosuke Nagayama, Subaru Takeda, and Genya Takenaka (Japan).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217047

Diamond Arête (4,442m)

Partial new route – One Way Out (2,200m, WI6 M6) - on the Diamond Arête, east face of Mt. Hunter (4,442m), Central Alaska Range, May 14-15, by Michael Gardner, Sam Hennessey and Rob Smith (USA). Continued to summit and descended north buttress.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217050

Begguya (Mt Hunter)

First ascent of In the Shadow of the Wall (1,200m, AI6 M7) to the top of the north buttress of Begguya (Mt Hunter), Central Alaska Range, May 14–15, Dane Steadman and Cody Winckler (USA). The second half of the route followed an established line. Rappelled Bibler-Klewin Route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217049

Great Wall (1,500m)

First ascent of the Great Wall (1,500m), on the southeast face of Mt Dickey (2,909m), Central Alaska Range, April 14–17, by Tom Livingstone (U.K.) and Gašper Pintar (Slovenia). Descended west face.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217072

Mt. Bradley (2,775m)

First ascent of Sports (1,420m, Alaskan 5, 5.10 A1 AI4 M6 90°) on the southeast face of Mt. Bradley (2,775m), Central Alaska Range, April 19–22, by Eli Spitulnik and Michael Telstad (USA). Descent via west ridge.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217073

Mooses Tooth (3,150m)

First ascent of Cold Wars (980m, 19 pitches, M5+ A3 70° snow/ice) on the south face of Mooses Tooth (3,150m), February 28-March 8, Paweł Hałdaś and Marcin Tomaszewski (Poland) capsule style. Descended route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217074

Peru

Nevado Copa (6,188m)

First ascent of Puro Flora (800m, M7 A2 95°) – the southeast face and southwest ridge of Nevado Copa (6,188m), July 4-6, by Iker and Eneko Pou (Spain) and Micher Quito (Peru). Descended normal route on the west ridge face.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217103

Nevado Copa (6,188m)

First ascent of the south face of Nevado Copa (6,188m), Cordillera Blanca, via A la Sombra de la Duda (800m, ED WI5+ M6 85°), May 22–23, by Stéphane Benoist, Manuel Bréchignac, Victor Garcin, and Martin de Truchis (France). Descent by west ridge (normal route).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217102

Nevado Quitaraju (6,036m)

New route—Dream House (1,240m, M6 AI5+ R/X A2)—up the south spur and southeast ridge of Nevado Quitaraju (6,036m), Cordillera Blanca, June 25–29, by Keisuke Ohkura, Kazumasa Otsubo, and Yudai Suzuki (Japan). Traversed mountain and descended north face.

NO LINK

Chile

Cerro Tronco (5,567m)

First ascent of the south face of Cerro Tronco (5,567m), Central Andes, via Odissea (1,250m, WI6 M6 A3+), October 29–31. Cristóbal Cament, Nicolás Gutiérrez, and Alexis Rojas (Chile). Rappel descent of right side of south face. The access to this rarely visited mountain is long and difficult, and the team reached, and exited, the base of the wall by helicopter.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217169

Torre Sur (2,460m)

First traverse of all four Torres del Paine in Patagonia—Torre Sur, Torre Central (2,460m), Torre Norte, and Peineta—via Travesía Doble M (2,350m of ascent, 5.11 A2), February 23–26, by Seán Villanueva O'Driscoll (Ireland/Belgium), solo, shortly after spending 18 days free climbing Riders on the Storm (Torre Central).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216892

La Espada (2,500m)

First ascent of Arma de Doble Filo (800m, 5.11+ A1), east face of La Espada (2,500m), Torres del Paine, February 24-25, by Sebastian Pelletti and Hernán Rodriguez (Chile).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216893

La Mascara (2,300m)

First ascent of Alborada (600m of climbing, 5.11+) on the west face of La Mascara (2,300m), Torres del Paine, December 28-29, by Sebastian Pelletti and Hernán Rodríguez (Chile).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217200

Central Tower of Paine

First free ascent of Riders on the Storm (1,300m, 7c+) on the east face of the Central Tower of Paine, Torres del Paine, over 18 days capsule style summiting on February 9, by Nicolas Favresse, Siebe Vanhee, and Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll (Belgian), along with photographer Drew Smith (USA).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216891

Norway

Stjerntinden (938m)

First ascent of the northeast face (650m, AI4+ M5) of Stjerntinden (938m), Flakstadoya, Lofoten Islands, Norway, March 9-10, by Stian Bruvoll (Norway) and Chris Wright (USA). Traversed mountain.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217225

Hesten (1,621m)

First ascent of Zimorodek (800m, M6 65°) on the south face of Hesten (1,621m), Sunndalen, March 10, by Jasiek Dąbczak, Marek Lewandowski, and Łukasz Murawski (Poland).

https://wspinanie.pl/2024/03/zimorodek-murawski-dabczak-lewandowski/

The Alps

Barre des Écrins (4,101m)

The first ascent of La Barretasse (900m, 18 pitches, 6b+ WI5 M5 A1) on the south-southeast face of the Barre des Écrins (4,101m), Écrins Massif, France, November 31-December 1, by Victor Garcin, Nicolas Jean, and Baptiste Obino (France)

https://alpinemag.com/french-climbers-new-mixed-route-barre-des-ecrins-east-face/

Brèche Zsigmondy (3,925m)

First ascent of Pantouflage et Sabotage (750m, 11 pitches, 6c A2 WI5+ M7) on the south face of Brèche Zsigmondy (3,925m) on La Meije, Écrins Massif, France, February 16-18, by Baptiste Obino (France), solo.

https://www.montagnes-magazine.com/actus-militantisme-canardage-sabotage-histoire-une-premiere-solitaire-face-sud-meije

Petit Dru (3,733m)

First ascent of Les Bâtards (800m, around 24 pitches, 8a 7c obl) on the north face of the Petit Dru (3,733m), Mont Blanc Massif, France, July 24-26, by Léo Billon and Enzo Oddo (France).

https://www.montagnes-magazine.com/actus-nouvelle-voie-face-nord-drus-leo-billon-enzo-oddo

Petit Dru (3,733m)

First ascent of Petit Pont (1,000m, 6a A3 M5) on the west face of the Petit Dru (3,733m), Mont Blanc Massif, France, December 26, 2024-January I, 2025, by Philippe Bruley, Amaury Fouillade, and Baptiste Obino (France).

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/petit-pont-added-petit-dru-west-face-philippe-bruley-amaury-fouillade-baptiste-obino.html

Civetta

First ascent of Mixed Feeling (560m, WI5 M6+) on the northeast face of Civetta, Italian Dolomites, January 15-16, by Christian Casanova, Francesco Favilli (both Italy), and Mathieu Maynadier (France).

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/big-new-mixed-climb-civetta-dolomites-christian-casanova-francesco-favilli-mathieu-maynadier.html

Marmolada di Ombretta (3,247m)

First ascent of Ego Land on the Elephant Pillar in the lower half of the south face of Marmolada di Ombretta (3,247m), Italian Dolomites, by Massimo Faletti and Berni Rivadossi: team free ascent of the route on August 28 by Rivadossi and Luca Bana (10 pitches, 8c/8c+ 7c+ obl).

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ego-land-added-marmolada-dolomites-bernardo-rivadossi-massimo-faletti-luca-bana.html

Monte Fop (2,883m)

First ascent of Per Elisabetta (500m, WI6, M6+) on the north face of Monte Fop (2,883m), Italian Dolomites, January 28, by Emanuele Andreozzi, Fabio Tamanini, Vaida Vaivadaite (Italy). Rappelled another route on the north face.

https://www.up-climbing.com/ghiaccio-misto/news-ghiaccio-misto/per-elisabetta-500-m-wi6-m6/

A partial new route, Aura (1,000m, AI5 M6) on the northeast face of Sassolungo (3,181m), Italian Dolomites, February 2-3, by Martin Feistl (Germany) and Simon Gietl (Italy)

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/huge-langkofel-dolomites-first-ascent-martin-feistl-simon-gietl.html

Schrammacher (3,410m)

First ascent of Direttissima (800m, AI6 M7), a partial new route on the north face of Schrammacher (3,410m), Zillertal Alps, Austria, January 16, Martin Sieberer and Lukas Waldner (Austria).

https://www.mountainblog.it/redazionale/martin-sieberer-e-lukas-waldner-aprono-una-nuova-via-diretta-sulla-nord-dello-schrammacher-nelle-alpi-dello-zillertal/

Performance in the Alps
The Drus-Les Droites-Grandes Jorasses

In three consecutive days in January Léo Billon and Benjemin Védrines (France) linked the Voie des Guides (850m, M8+) on the north face of the Drus, the 1,000m Šimon-Slavik (M7+, often referred to as the Rhem-Vimal after the winter ascensionists) on the north face of Les Droites, and No Siesta (1,100m, M8 WI6) on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses

https://alpinemag.com/drus-droites-jorasses-north-faces-trilogy-leo-billon-benjamin-vedrines/

All 82 4,000m peak

In three consecutive days in January Léo Billon and Benjemin Védrines (France) linked the Voie des Guides (850m, M8+) on the north face of the Drus, the 1,000m Šimon-Slavik (M7+, often referred to as the Rhem-Vimal after the winter ascensionists) on the north face of Les Droites, and No Siesta (1,100m, M8 WI6) on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses

https://fjellvei.com/alps/

Greece

Tsouka Rossa (2,377m)

First winter ascent of Scream of the Butterfly (500m to summit, AI5 M6+) on the north face and northeast ridge of Tsouka Rossa (2,377m), Pindos Mountains, Greece, February 10, by Dimitris Daskalakis, Spyros Kyriakou, and Christos Tsoutsias (Greece).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217205

 

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