UFO Line on the northwest face of Chamlang (7,321 meters). The seventh bivouac site - on the descent - is hidden.
©Andy Houseman (autumn 2012 photo)/American Alpine Journal

MAREK HOLEČEK-ZDENĚK HÁK (CZECH REPUBLIC)
NORTHWEST FACE, UFO LINE, 2,000M, WI5 M6, AND TRAVERSE OF THE MOUNTAIN, MAY 17-23 ROUND TRIP FROM BASE CAMP

Since he first saw it in 2001 Marek Holeček had dreamed of climbing the great northwest face of Chamlang in Nepal's Mahalangur Himal. Others had shared the same dream, and after more than half a dozen attempts the face had become one of the most coveted in the country. When Holeček and Zdeněk Hák arrived in spring 2019 it was obvious the face had little snow and a lot of hard water ice. Outflanking objective dangers in the lower section would prove to be one of the keys.

From a bivouac at 5,300m on the glacier below the face the two Czechs headed up more or less directly below the summit. On the fourth day they reached the upper east ridge and bivouacked 80m below the top. On May 21 they crossed the summit and spent the rest of the day trying to navigate the Original Japanese route on the south ridge. This proved more difficult than expected. Two more bivouacs - without food - and difficult down-climbing and rappelling in often poor visibility were needed to reach the valley.

The route was named UFO Line as a tribute to Reinhold Messner and Doug Scott, who in 1981, with Sherpas Ang Dorje and Pasang, were the first to climb the north side of the Chamlang massif and reach one of the middle summits. There, they were puzzled by a box-like object that hovered above them, shining magnificently in the midday sun.

MAREK HOLEČEK

Czech mountaineer, rock climber, documentary film maker, writer, photographer and lecturer. Marek was born and lives in Prague with his wife and daughter. He has done more than 30 expeditions to the Asian Mountains, South and North America, Antarctica. All in alpine style. Marek has completed 13 first ascents and solo ascent up the Japanese Couloir to Gasherbrum I so far. Marek was nominated for the Piolets d'Or 2014 award for the first ascent of Talung (7348m), Nepal. He also received honorable recognition Golden Piton Awards 2006 for the first ascent of Meru Central (6310 m n. m.), India. Marek received seven awards and five honorable recognition for the best climb of the year from the Czech Mountaineering Association. Marek is a author of the successful book, autor and co-autor of 6 documentary films. He often writes articles for Czech and foreign magazines and websites, prepares lectures for the public and motivational lectures for companies. In 2017 Marek established with Zdeněk Hák a new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 meters), Karakorum. The new route called Satistaction! was established in alpine style is rated ED+, M7, WI 5+. Awarded second place as the Czech Climber of the Year 2017. In 2018, Marek together with Hák established a new route up Kyazo Ri in Nepal, ED+ ,WI 4+,M6,3+UIAA.

Zdeněk Hák

Czech mountaineer, rock climber and ski alpinist. Zdeněk has been working as UIAGM mountain guide since 2010. He spent his childhood skiing and was member of junior Czech downhill ski team. Zdeněk started climbing and ski mountaineering racing in 1997 during his studies at the Hotel School in Turnov, Czech Republic. In 2016 Zdeněk skied down the highest mountain in Afghanistan Noshaq (7498m) for which he was awarded the Czech Climb of the Year Award in the category of ski mountaineering. In 2017, Zdeněk established with Marek Holeček a new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 meters), Karakorum. The new route called Satistaction! was climbed in alpine style and is rated ED+, M7, WI 5+. Zdeněk was awarded third place as the Czech Climber of the Year 2017 and 2019. In 2018, Zdeněk, again together with Marek Holeček established a new route up Kyazo Ri in Nepal, ED+ ,WI 4+,M6,3+UIAA. Zdeněk has three sons (13, 5 and 10 months) and lives with his wife in Malá Skála, Czech Republic. In his free time, Háček climbs sandstone towers in Český ráj.