Piolets d'Or - Chamlang (7,321m)

We are glad to announce that the 2021 edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place
from the 26th-29th November in the beautiful mountain city of Briançon, France

©rogiervanrijn

Briançon, 26th-29th November 2021

Better late than never, we are glad to announce that the 2021 edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place from the 26th-29th November in the beautiful mountain city of...

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2020 - Catherine Destivelle

By Claude Gardien Catherine Destivelle started making a name for herself in the climbing world during the 1980s, a time when sport climbing was exploding in popularity and grades were rising...

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2019 - Significant ascents

The following is a representative list of significant, innovative ascents in most mountain regions of the World, climbed during 2019, in alpine style, and without using drilled equipment. This is...

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2020 Honoured Ascents

Chamlang (7,321m)

UFO Line on the northwest face of Chamlang (7,321 meters). The seventh bivouac site - on the descent - is hidden. ©Andy Houseman (autumn 2012 photo)/American Alpine Journal MAREK HOLEČEK-ZDENĚK HÁK...

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Tengi Ragi Tau (6,938m)

©Tino Villanueva/American Alpine Journal ALAN ROUSSEAU - TINO VILLANUEVA (USA)WEST FACE, RELEASE THE KRAKEN, 1,600M, AI5 M5+, OCTOBER 13-17 ROUND TRIP FROM A GLACIER CAMP BELOW THE FACE. In 2012, on their...

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Link Sar (7,041m)

(A) Changi Tower. (B) K6 Main. (C) Link Sar (7,041m) from the southeast, showing the line of the 2019 ascent, advanced base camp, and bivouacs.  ©Matteo Della Bordella / American...

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Rakaposhi (7,788m)

 ©Kenro Nakajima / American Alpine Journal KAZUYA HIRAIDE - KENRO NAKAJIMA (JAPAN)SOUTH FACE AND SOUTHEAST RIDGE, 4,000M FROM BASE CAMP, JUNE 27-JULY 3 ROUND TRIP FROM BASE CAMP. The Hunza region of...

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UFO Line on the northwest face of Chamlang (7,321 meters). The seventh bivouac site - on the descent - is hidden.
©Andy Houseman (autumn 2012 photo)/American Alpine Journal

MAREK HOLEČEK-ZDENĚK HÁK (CZECH REPUBLIC)
NORTHWEST FACE, UFO LINE, 2,000M, WI5 M6, AND TRAVERSE OF THE MOUNTAIN, MAY 17-23 ROUND TRIP FROM BASE CAMP

Since he first saw it in 2001 Marek Holeček had dreamed of climbing the great northwest face of Chamlang in Nepal's Mahalangur Himal. Others had shared the same dream, and after more than half a dozen attempts the face had become one of the most coveted in the country. When Holeček and Zdeněk Hák arrived in spring 2019 it was obvious the face had little snow and a lot of hard water ice. Outflanking objective dangers in the lower section would prove to be one of the keys.

From a bivouac at 5,300m on the glacier below the face the two Czechs headed up more or less directly below the summit. On the fourth day they reached the upper east ridge and bivouacked 80m below the top. On May 21 they crossed the summit and spent the rest of the day trying to navigate the Original Japanese route on the south ridge. This proved more difficult than expected. Two more bivouacs - without food - and difficult down-climbing and rappelling in often poor visibility were needed to reach the valley.

The route was named UFO Line as a tribute to Reinhold Messner and Doug Scott, who in 1981, with Sherpas Ang Dorje and Pasang, were the first to climb the north side of the Chamlang massif and reach one of the middle summits. There, they were puzzled by a box-like object that hovered above them, shining magnificently in the midday sun.

 

  • Piolets d'Or 2020 | 19th September 2020 | ©Lucyna Lewandowska

  • Piolets d'Or 2020 | 19th September 2020 | ©Lucyna Lewandowska

  • Piolets d'Or 2020 | 19th September 2020 | ©Michal Zlotowski

  • Piolets d'Or 2020 | 19th September 2020 | ©Michal Kwasniewski

  • Piolets d'Or 2020 | 19th September 2020 | ©Michal Kwasniewski

  • Piolets d'Or 2020 | 19th September 2020 | ©Michal Zlotowski

  • Piolets d'Or 2020 | 19th September 2020 | ©Michal Kwasniewski

  • Piolets d'Or 2020 | 19th September 2020 | ©Michal Zlotowski

What are the "Piolets d'Or" ?

A celebration of mountaineering

The purpose of the Piolets d'Or awards is to raise awareness about the year's greatest ascents across the world.  They aim to celebrate the taste for adventure, the bravery and sense of exploration that lie behind the art of climbing in the world's great mountain ranges. The Piolets d'Or draw their inspiration from mountaineering's rich history.  They are a celebration of a sense of partnership and solidarity, of shared experiences, and reward individual or collective achievement.

The Spirit of Modern Alpinism

More than just the recognition of a performance, the Piolets d'Or celebrates passion, spirit and values. The spirit of the Piolets d’Or draws its inspiration from the history of alpinism and the authenticity of true team spirit. The style should take precedence over the conquest of an objective.  Success is no longer about getting to the summit at all costs, employing all possible financial and technical means, (oxygen, fixed ropes, doping products, etc) or large-scale human resources (high-altitude porters or sherpas). The Piolets d’Or event encourages imagination in searching for innovative routes using a maximum of economy of means, making use of experience and respecting man and nature. The Piolets d’Or is attached to making climbing a shared and valued richness all over the world, capable of attracting the best of human ambitions whilst encompassing moral values and edifying behaviour. The Piolets d'Or event is therefore a celebration of an ethical alpinism, rich in emotion.

 

 

Les Piolets d'Or

The Piolet d'Or Career

In 2009, the first Lifetime Achievement Piolet d’Or was awarded to Walter Bonatti.  His style of mountaineering perfectly reflected the spirit of thePiolets d’Or.  He became a sort of godfather to those who would receive this award after him. In honour of the man and his spirit, it has been renamed the “Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement, Walter Bonatti Award”.

The Career Piolets d'Or was created to reward a career where the spirit has inspired the following generations, in the sense of criteria set down by the convention.
Recipients of the Piolet d'Or Career :
2009 : Walter BONATTI
2010 : Reinhold MESSNER
2011 : Doug SCOTT
2012 : Robert PARAGOT
2013 : Kurt DIEMBERGER
2014 : John ROSKELLEY
2015 : Chris BONINGTON
2016 : Wojciech KURTYKA
2017 : Jeff LOWE
2018 : Andrej ŠTREMFELJ
2019 : Krzysztof WIELICKI
2020 : Catherine DESTIVELLE

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The Piolets Jeunes

The Piolets Jeunes is a gathering for diversity, exchange of experience, know-how and cultures.
It allows young people to experience a true mountain experience
.

Because we are convinced of the major educational role of mountain activities, particularly in the context of education through sport, we wish to contribute to the development of mountain activities among youth. We also promote the spirit and culture of the mountainin order to put young people in link:
- Using natural and cultural heritage and mountain with the territory
- With strong values related to these adventure land practices: the spirit of discovery, respect, solidarity, spirit climber, commitment, experience, progressive autonomy, and responsibility

2021 Organizers