Piolets d'Or - Ascensions marquantes 2017

Ascensions marquantes 2017

Routes listed represent significant and innovative "mountaineering" ascents within their respective areas during 2017. With only a few exceptions, routes below were new, climbed without placing drilled equipment, and in complete alpine style. Grades are simply those quoted by the first ascensionists and remain unconfirmed.

ASIA

India

Rungofarka (6,495m))
Alan Rousseau-Tino Villanueva (USA)

First ascent via north ridge, The T &A Show, 1,200m, M6 WI4+ A0
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web18w/newswire-rungofarka-trip-report

Rucho (5,970m GPS)
Takaaki Furuhata-Yasushi Yamanoi (Japan)

First ascent, east face and south ridge, TD 70°
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214447/Rucho-East-Face-and-South-Ridge

Chakdor Ri (6,193m)
Matjaz Dusic-Matic Jost-Tomas Zerovnik (Slovenia)

Southeast ridge, Treasure of Zanskar, 750m, ED VII- 55°
http://asian-alpine-e-news.com/asian_alpine_e-new_issue_no15.pdf

Tetleh Kangri (6,025m)
Juan Diego Amador-David Perez (Spain)

First ascent via northwest face, Don't Sleep, 900m, TD/TD+ 75° M3/4.
http://www.barrabes.com/actualidad/reportajes/2-10227/pico-islas-canarias-historia-montana.html

Arjuna (6,230m)
Ales Cesen-Urban Novak-Marko Prezelj (Slovenia)

West face, All or Nothing, 1,400m, ED+ M7+ WI5+ A0
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214388/Kijai-Nala-Peak-6038m-North-Ridge-Arjuna-West-Face

Arjuna South (ca 6,100m)
Pete Graham-Uisdean Hawthorn-Ben Silvestre (UK)

Southwest pillar, Gandiva, 1,400m 5.11 M5
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/10/news_-_gandiva_1400m_e3511_m5_in_kishtwar_himalaya_report-71345

Barnaj I (6,370m GPS)
Sam Hennessey-Seth Timpano (USA)

First ascent via the northeast buttress, 1,450m, WI5+ M4
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214493/Barnaj-I-Northeast-Buttress

Cerro Kishtwar (6,155m GPS)
Thomas Huber (Germany)-Stefan Siegrist-Julian Zankar (both Switzerland)

Northwest face, Har-har Mahadev, 1,000m, A3+ 6b M6 80°, capsule style with some bolted belays.
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/cerro-kishtwar-new-route-in-himalaya-climbed-by-thomas-huber-stephan-siegrist-julian-zanker.html

Papsura (6,451m)
An Chi-young – Gu Gyo-jeong – Kim Chang-ho - Kim Ki-hyun (Korea)

South face, Korean Way, and Dharamsura (6,446m), west face, second ascent, ca 1,000m, ED+.

Shivling (6,543m)
Simon Gietl-Vittorio Messini (Italy)

Northeast face and north face, partial new route – Shiva's line, 1,100m, WI5 M6.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214450/Shivling-Northeast-and-North-Faces-Partial-New-Route

Sri Kailas West (6,803m)
Philipp Buhrer-Alex Gammeter (Switzerland)

First ascent, south face and traverse, ca 950m.

Nilkanth (6,596m)
Chantel Astorga-Anne Gilbert Chase-Jason Thompson (USA)

Southwest face, Obscured Perception, 1,400m, WI5 M6 A0 70° snow.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214593/Nilkanth-Southwest-Face-Obscured-Perception

Pakistan

Jinnah Peak (6,177m)
Mara Babolin-Tarcisio Bello-Francesco Nota Rodari (Italy)

First ascent via southeast face and east ridge, Gholtolti Dreams, 1,500m, TD, 70° IV.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214545/Jinnah-Peak-Southeast-Face-and-East-Ridge

Shispare (7,611m)
Kazuya Hiraide-Kenro Nakajima (Japan)

Northeast face and traverse, Shukriya, 2,700m, WI5 M6.
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/shispare-ne-face-difficult-first-ascent-in-karakorum-by-kazuya-hiraide-and-kenro-nakajima.html
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214599

Trango Tower (6,250m)
Alexei Kurochkin-Konstantin Markevitch-Dmitry Skotnikov (Russia)

Southwest face, Clair de Lune direct start, 1,200m, 6b A3, capsule style
https://www.goryonline.com/trango-nameless-tower---rosyjska-nowa-droga-wariant,2008505,i.html

Praqpa Ri southeast top (7,026m)
Andres Bosch-Alejandro Mora (Chile)

First ascent via east-southeast ridge, 1,500m, TD+, M3 50-90°.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214460/Khalkhal-West-Southwest-Ridge-Praqpa-Ri-Southeast-Top-East-Southeast-Ridge

Gasherbrum I (8,068m)
Zdenek Hak-Marek Holecek (Czech Republic)

Complete southwest face, Satisfaction!, 2,600m, ED+ WI5+ M7
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web17c/newswire-gasherbrum-satisfaction

Beatrice (ca 5,800m)
Ryo Masumoto-Yusuke Sato (Japan)

Southeast face, The Excellent Adventure, first free ascent (second overall ascent and first to the summit), 750m, 7c+, capsule style
http://asian-alpine-e-news.com/asian_alpine_e-new_issue_no20.pdf

K7 West (6,615m)
Takaaki Nagato-Katsutaka Yokoyama (Japan)

Complete southwest ridge, Sun Patch Spur, 2,300m of height gain, 6,000m of climbing, ED+ 5.11c R A2 M5 90°.
Summary only at http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214595/Culmination

Fiost Brakk (5,850m)
Gian Luca Cavalli-Michele Focchi-Marcello Sanguineti (Italy)

First ascent via northeast face, Amman in Kashmir, 950m, ED+ 6b AI6 X.
http://www.planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/translimes-2017-alpinismo-esplorazioni-e-aperture-nel-karakoram-occidentale.html

Nepal

Larkya Peak (6,416m)
Archil Badriashvili-Bakar Gelashvili-Giorgi Tepnadze (Georgia)

First ascent via southeast face, 700m, ED1, 6a M5 A4 80°.
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/larkya-main-georgians-claim-first-ascent-in-himalaya.html

Larkya Peak (6,416m)
Esteban Mena-Roberto Morales-Nico Navarrete (Ecuador)

Southeast face, Directa Ecuatoriana, 700m, 5.11 R C2.
http://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/esteban-mena-roberto-jose-morales-y-nico-navarrete-abren-rdirecta-ecuatorianar-al-larkya-sur

Phungi Himal (6,538m)
Yuri Koshelenko-Alexey Lonchinsky (Russia)

First ascent via southeast face and traverse, 80°.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214592/Phungi-Himal-First-Ascent-by-Southeast-Face

Chekigo Sano (6,121m)
Jesus Ibarz-Omar Juan-Pablo Ruiz (Spain)

West face, Danebat, 900m, TD+, WI5 M4/5.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214596/Chekigo-Sano-West-Face-Bamongo-South-Face-Tick-Chha

Bamongo (6,400m)
Omar Juan-Pablo Ruiz (Spain)

Exit onto Kang Nachugo west ridge, south face, Tick Chha, 1,200m, ED, WI5 M6+.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214596/Chekigo-Sano-West-Face-Bamongo-South-Face-Tick-Chha

Khang Karpo (Ripimo Shar, 6,646m)
Luka Plut-Miha Zupin (Slovenia)

South-southeast ridge, Kranjski Greben, 1,300m, IV 75°, and other routes
https://www.pzs.si/novice.php?pid=12325

Langdung (6,357m)
Dawa Gyalje Sherpa-Pasang Kidar Sherpa-Nimi Tenji Sherpa-Dawa Yangzum Sherpa (Nepal)

First ascent – during the Nepalese or Meteorological winter - via the southwest face and southeast ridge, 650m above upper plateau, 45-60° and mixed.
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web18s/newswire-sherpa-winter-langdung-ascent

Chugimago (6,258m)
Mike Arnold-Kristoffer Erickson (USA)

West-southwest ridge, ca 650m, ED1/2, 5.7/8 AI3, repeated by Spanish two days later.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214482/Chugimago-aka-Chukyima-Go-West-Southwest-Ridge

Pangbuk North (6,589m)
Max Bonniot-Pierre Sancier (France)

Northeast face and southeast ridge, Tolerance Zero, 1,100m, ED1, WI5 80°.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214594/Pangbuk-North-Northeast-Face-and-Southeast-Ridge

Nangpai Gosum I (7,321m)
Jost Kobusch (Germany)

First ascent via southwest face and south summit, ca 1,700m, generally 50-70° with two short vertical steps, solo.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214508/Nangpai-Gosum-I-Southwest-Face-via-South-Summit

Peak 6,010m
Joao Garcia-Angel Salamanca (Spain)

North face and east-southeast ridge almost to summit, 900m, 80°.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214328/Peak-6010m-North-Face-and-East-Southeast-Ridge-Within-30m-of-Summit

Nuptse Northwest (Nuptse Nup II, 7,742m)
Frédéric Degoulet-Benjamin Guigonnet-Hélias Millerioux (France)

South face, 2,200m, WI6 M5+.
www.alpinist.com/doc/web17f/newswire-new-route-on-nuptse-south-face

Pandra (6,850m)
Mattieu Détrie-Pierre Labbre-Benjamin Védrines (France)

Northeast face, Peine Plancher, 1,200m, WI6 M6.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214591/Pandra-Northeast-Face-Peine-Plancher

China

Edgar (6,618m)
Matteo Faletti-Tomas Franchini (Italy)

West face, The Moon's Power, 1,000m, WI4+ M4+, Tomas Franchini, solo; Jiazi (6,540m), southeast ridge, White Line, 1,600m, 85.
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/first-class-italian-mountaineering-in-china-the-mount-edgar-report.html

Kemailong (5,873m)
Galina Chibitok-Marina Kopteva

North face and east ridge, On the Way to Amsterdam, 970m, Russian 6A, 6b A2, capsule style on north face.
http://asian-alpine-e-news.com/asian_alpine_e-new_issue_no15.pdf

Kyrgyzstan

Pik Chapaev (6,372m)
Maria Cardell (Spain)-Denis Urubko (Russia and Poland)

South face, Saber, 2,000m, IV/4 M4 90°.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214491/Pik-Chapaev-Saber-Pik-Irbis-First-Ascent-via-North-Face

NORTH AMERICA

Alaska

Revelations, Obelisk (2,836m)
Gediminas Simutis (Lithuania)-Frieder Wittmann (Germany)

Southeast face, Alternative Facts, 900m, WI5 M6 A1, and other routes.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214490/Revelation-Mountains-First-Ascents

Alaska - Mt Hunter (Begguya, 4,442m)
Colin Haley (USA)

North buttress, first solo ascent to the summit via previously uncompleted new route, 17 hours round trip from Kahiltna Base Camp, ca 1,850m, M4/5 AI4.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214476/Mt-Hunter-North-Buttress-First-Solo-Ascent-to-Summit-and-Speed-Record

Bear Tooth (3,069m)
Greg Boswell-Will Sim (UK)

Southeast face, Beastiality, 1,400m. Also Shark Tooth, first ascent via Shark Fishing, 600m (no grades given).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214477/Bear-Tooth-Beastiality-Shark-Tooth-Shark-Fishing

Mt Huntington (3,731m)
Clint Helander-Jess Roskelley (USA)

Complete south ridge – Gauntlet Ridge, 2,500m, Alaskan 6, M6 A0 95°.
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web17w/newswire-huntington-complete-south-ridge-ascent

Arrigetch, Xanadu (ca 2,165m)
Silvia Vidal (Catalonia)

West face, Un Pas Més, 530m, 11 pitches, VI A4/A4+ 6a, capsule style, some bolts placed.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214492/Arrigetch-Peaks-Xanadu-Un-Pas-Ms

Canada

Bugaboos
Leo Houlding (UK)-Will Stanhope (Canada)

Howser Towers enchainment in one day, all free by both climbers, 2,000m, 5.12+(7b/7b+).
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/bugaboos-climbing-leo-houlding-and-will-stanhope-enchain-howser-towers-in-a-day.html

Monarch Mountain (3,572m)
Simon Richardson (UK)-Michael Rinn (Germany)

Southwest face, Game of Thrones, 1,250m, ED2, 5.10a.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214507/Monarch-Mountain-Southwest-Face-and-Other-Ascents

Mt Geikie (3,298m)
Tony McLean (Canada)

North face, first solo ascent via Lowe-Hannibal and upper variation, 1,200m, ED2, 5.11a.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214489/First-Solo-Ascent-of-Mt-Geikies-North-Face

Baffin Island, Ship's Prow, Secret of Silence
Marek Raganowicz (Poland)

Secret of Silence, 600m, VI A4 (no bolts), solo, capsule style.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214474/Two-Solo-New-Routes-on-the-Ships-Prow

SOUTH AMERICA

Patagonia

Cerro Murallon, east summit (ca 2,770m)
David Bacci-Matteo Bernasconi-Matteo della Bordella (Italy)

East face, El Valor del Miedo, 1,000m, M6 A2 90°+
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214336/El-Valor-del-Miedo

Central Tower of Paine (2,460m)
Nicolas Favresse-Siebe Vanhee-Sean Villanueva (Belgian)

East face, El Regalo de Mwoma, first free ascent with variants, 1,200m, 8a, Capsule style.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214104/Central-Tower-El-Regalo-de-Mwoma-First-Free-Ascent-and-Variations

Peru

Chacraraju Este (6,001m)
Alik Berg-Quentin Lindfield (Canada)

East face, Devil's Reach Around, 900m, 5.10 M6 90°
www.alpinist.com/doc/web17c/newswire-chacraraju-devils-reach-around

Hualcan (6,122m)
Alik Berg (Canada)-Aritza Monasterio (Spain)

North face, Nadie Sabe Nada, 1,000m, 5.9 M6 85°
http://asian-alpine-e-news.com/asian_alpine_e-new_issue_no17.pdf

ANTARCTICA

Queen Maud Land, Stetind (2,500m)
Alex Honnold-Cedar Wright (USA)

East pillar, 5.11, and many more ascents.

Wienke Island, Mt Pizduch (1,000m)
Mira Dub-Marek-Holecek (Czech Republic)

Northwest face, 5.13 (South-southwest face, Bloody Nose, 850m, ED+, WI5+ M4 95°.
http://marekholecek.cz/en/novinka/expedice-antarktida-2018-monte-pizduch-bloody-nose-prvovystup

Gothic Peaks, Alpha Tower
Jean Burgun (France)-Leo Houlding (UK)

First ascent via north face, Scottish VII,7, 5.11 A3.
http://spectreexpedition.com/a-chance

Pirrit Hills, Mt Turcotte (1,959m)
Arnaud Bayol-Didier Jourdain-Dimitry Munoz (France)

East face, Tafoni Pillar, Corrasion, 600m, TD, 5c. And other routes.
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/wild-french-rock-climbs-in-pirrit-hills-antarctica.html

GREENLAND

Inugsuarmiut Fjord, Plan B Tower
Keith Ladzinski-Mike Libecki-Andy Mann-Ethan Pringle (USA)

Northwest face, 5.13 (7c+/8a)
https://gripped.com/special-feature/mike-libecki-and-a-2017-greenland-first-ascent/

EUROPE

Scandinavia

Trollveggen (1,700m)
Marek Raganowicz (Poland)

North face, first solo winter ascent of any route on the face via Suser Gjennom Harryland, 600m, Norwegian 6 A3.
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web17w/newswire-winter-solo-on-troll-wall

Alps

Ortler, Konigspitze (3,851m)
Daniel Ladurner-Johannes Lemayer (Italy)

Northeast face, Schattenspiel, 900m, M6 WI5.
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/konigsspitze-ice-climb-by-daniel-ladurner-and-johannes-lemayer.html

Matterhorn (4,478m)
Dani Arnold-Thomas Senf (both Switzerland)-Alex Huber (Germany)

North face, Schweizernase, 1,000m, VII+ A4. Winter.
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/matterhorn-north-face-alexander-huber-dani-arnold-thomas-senf-forge-new-climb.html

Breitwangflue (2,200m)
Dani Arnold

Northwest face, on-sight free solo of Beta Block Super, 300m WI7.
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/dani-arnold-free-solo-climbs-beta-block-super-icefall-up-breitwangfluh-in-switzerland.html

Organisateurs et partenaires principaux 2017