Cerro Riso Patron is located 50 kilometres to the southwest of Cerro Torre, in an isolated area between the Hielo Continental plateau and the Pacific fjords. During a first attempt on the south summit (which remains unclimbed) in 2014, an accident low down on the mountain interrupted their expedition early on. Accustomed to the complex logistics of climbing in the region, the international team composed of Lise Billon, Antoine Moineville (both French) and Jerome Sullivan (half american, half french), decided to reattempt the challenge, joined this time by Argentinian climber Diego Simari (taking the place of Martin Elias). Unable to reach the foot of their initial objective, the team changed plans and shifted their sights to the main summit, which had already been climbed in 1988 by an Italian team. After an epic five-day approach, the foursome made the first ascent of the northeast pillar in three days from 22 to 24 September. This was the second ascent of the peak. Their 1,000 m route Hasta las Webas is rated ED-, with difficulties estimated at AI5+, M5, 90° and X. The first ascensionists nonetheless note that the grade takes into account the isolated location. They made the descent on the same day they summited, following the north ridge and then its flank.
The International Jury has chosen to make three Piolets d'Or Awards and one
Special Mention. These are, in no particular order :
Jirishanca (ca 6,094m), south-southeast …
© Quentin Roberts First ascent of the south-southeast spur of Jirishanca, Cordillera Huayhuash, via Reino Hongo (1,000m, M7 AI5+ 90°) from July 21-23. Descent by the east buttress and lower southeast face It...
Read moreJugal Spire (aka Dorje Lhakpa II, 6,563m…
©Paul Ramsden First ascent of Jugal Spire (6,563m), Jugal Himal, via The Phantom Line (1,300m, ED) on the north face, from April 25-29. Descent was effected by traversing the mountain and...
Read morePumari Chhish East (ca 6,850m)
©Victor Saucède The first ascent of Pumari Chhish East, Hispar Muztagh, via The Crystal Ship (1,600m, 6b A2 M7) on the south face and upper west ridge, from June 25-29. The...
Read moreSpecial Mention 2023 - First ascent of t…
©Ramona Waldner The Piolets d’Or wishes to promote female alpinism, with the aim of inspiring future generations of female climbers. It also realizes the difficulty in finding a universally accepted mechanism...
Read moreThe Piolets d’Or wishes to promote female alpinism, with the aim of inspiring future generations of female climbers. It also realizes the difficulty in finding a universally accepted mechanism for doing so. From time to time, it makes one or more Special Mentions. These are not Piolets d’Or, but a recognition bestowed on an ascent that is deemed notable for different reasons, yet still fitting with the core values of the Piolets d’Or Charter.